We pulled into Toledo after dark and somehow managed to find our hotel without getting lost. The city stood up on its hill, still having a striking resemblance to El Greco’s famous painting of its dramatic skyline. I was excited about visiting Toledo for many reasons, the most prominent of which is because it is the marzipan capital of the world and I absolutely love those overly sweet nuggets of almond paste; they remind me of a favorite Dutch dessert that my grandma used to make and give me a feeling of happiness and warmth that can only be evoked by super sweet almond confections.
After checking into our hotel, we ventured down the street to make our second attempt of the day at eating tapas. Once again, we found ourselves in the hands of a barkeep who spoke very little English. Fortunately we know the word for cervesa and we were able to muddle through a few sentences asking him to serve us his favorite items from the menu. This time, the cervesa and tapas flowed. The three of us ate and ate until finally, when the barkeep asked ‘Mas?’ Chris and I both replied ‘No mas. Gracias!’
The next morning we awoke to chilly temperatures and frosty windows. As we wound our way through the city, I was super bummed that I left my Uggs at home and crazy jealous of Kai getting carted around town in a sleeping bag.
Pretty quickly, we found out that, in spite of what appeared to be booming tourism, many of the restaurant and shop owners in Toledo did not speak much English. Yet again we ended up ordering a tipico breakfast, which, strangely, was paella; clearly not a breakfast food. No worries, it was tasty and it got the job done. After breakfast, we strolled through the narrow, hilly streets of Toledo taking in the sights, and, of course, munching on marzipan along the way.
By the time we had crossed town to see the last “must see” on our list, The Cathedral of Toledo, my fingers and toes were completely numb from the cold. I couldn’t wait to go inside and bask in the heat of the second largest church in Spain. Sadly, and I should have expected this, there was no heat. It was nearly as cold inside as out. I think this sealed the fate of the rest of our trip. It was time to bail on frigid Spain and head for more temperate coastal Portugal. A few hours later, after we declared Toledo “done”, we began our walk back across town, across Puente San Martin, and to our car.
Our early evening was spent driving through Spanish, and then Portugese countryside on our way to Porto.
Next up: Porto, port wine, and tripe